| Step back in time |
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What better way to remind ourselves of Barbados’ history than by an intriguing afternoon stroll back in time? So suggests Brian Ramsey.
In the introduction to each episode of the Star Trek series, there is the phrase “To boldly go where no man has gone before” and indeed, sometimes when you are trying to find a particular place it seems that is what you are doing. At other times you want to go where other people have gone before and experience history. In Barbados there is a particular place where it is very easy to literally walk through history and on a quiet afternoon be transported back in time. This location is the Garrison Historic Area and it surrounds the Garrison Savannah. The Garrison Savannah is the centre of much of the sporting and recreational activity in Barbados. The island’s horse racing track is located here; horse racing has been taking place since the middle of the 1800s. There are a rugby field, basketball court and jogging track, all of which are extensively used on afternoons. The Savannah, however, is an historic location for much more than sport. On November 30th 1966, in the Garrison Savannah, the ceremony was held for the lowering of the Union Jack and the raising of the Barbados flag, thus signalling full independence for the country of Barbados. The historical significance of the Garrison Savannah goes even further back. In 1650 Charles Fort was erected in the area and then, in 1705, St Ann’s Fort was added. The arrival of British troops in 1780 led to the establishment of the Garrison. From 1796 the Garrison area became the headquarters of the British West India Regiment and the large grassy area in the centre, which is now the Garrison Savannah, was the regiment’s parade grounds. The British West India Regiment was the first British regiment of black soldiers, and provided 132 years of service both in the British West Indies and worldwide. Being the site of a military complex, numerous buildings were constructed from the 1660s to the 1800s. These give the Garrison area much of its historical and architectural interest. On any walk around the Garrison area you cannot miss the numerous cannons that are located in the area. These form part of the National Cannon Collection, which constitutes the largest cluster of 17th century English cannons in the world. Within the Barbados National Cannon Collection is an Elizabethan gun cast in 1600 – the only one known to exist. The Collection also contains one of only two examples in existence from 1652 with Oliver Cromwell’s crest. Some of this armoury can be seen in front of the Main Guard building facing the racetrack. This elegant Georgian building of 1802, with its handsome clock tower and wide verandah, is now an information centre and houses exhibits about the West Indian Regiment.
As you continue around the Savannah there are numerous 17th- to 19th- century military buildings constructed from brick brought as ballast on ships from England. There are also several memorials, one of which commemorates the death of 15 people and the destruction of the barracks and hospital in a hurricane on 18 August 1831. Another, outside the Barbados Museum in the northeast corner, is in honour of the men of the Royal York Rangers who fell in action against the French in Martinique, Les Saintes and Guadeloupe in the 1809-10 campaign. The museum houses a Natural History gallery, a History Gallery with sections devoted to Amerindian artefacts, Colonial Years, Emancipation, the period leading to Independence, two small but very interesting sections on Education and Religion, Agriculture, Road making, Electricity and Bajan Architecture. Each little cubicle tells a complete story with actual implements shown and photographs from the period. There is the Warmington Gallery, which is a recreation of a house interior where you view through the windows from the outside. The Africa Gallery shows some African kingdoms and many of the links between Africa and our Caribbean traditions and habits. The Children Gallery is highly fascinating, and even adults will enjoy it, especially as it may take you down memory lane (depending on your age). Completing the circle of historic buildings is St Ann’s Fort, which is still used by the Barbados Defence Force. You cannot enter, but look for the crenellated signal tower with its flag pole on top. It formed the high command of a chain of signal posts, the most complete of which is at Gun Hill. The long, thin building is the old drill hall. So when next you are in Barbados, make sure you’re wearing your walking shoes and visit the Garrison Historic District to be transported back in time. |
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