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An insider’s guide to eight of the best restaurants to be found in Dominica. Words & photos: Judy Bastyra
Known as Nature’s island, the fecund environment of Dominica is a breadbasket for food. Not only will you find fruits and vegetables growing along the side of the road, but the forests and rivers are the perfect habitat for game and a large variety of fish and crustaceans. This sleepy, verdant island offers a surprising range of eating experiences that will thrill the most jaded of palates – you just need to know which restaurant or café to go to…
La Robe Creole
A visit to Roseau wouldn’t be complete without a stop at La Robe Creole. It’s a family run business: Erica Burnett is the sweet hand behind all the food, and her daughter Tiffany manages the restaurant. It has a cosy, bistro-style feel with stone walls, tiled floors and madras tablecloths. The menu is varied, offering lobster, rabbit, suckling pig and a variety of fish dishes. Many of the regulars go for the plantain puffs served with home made mango chutney, as well as Erica’s guava or pineapple tarts. It has an easy and relaxing atmosphere, which is perfect for a dinner a deux. 3 Victoria Street, Roseau. Tel: (767) 448 2930
Ancient Capital Restaurant
This Chinese restaurant is situated on the first floor of a traditional wooden house. The decor is straightforward and simple, with Chinese touches. It’s small with only eight tables inside and three on the balcony overlooking the hustle and bustle of the town. Opposite is the house where the film, The Wild Sargasso Sea was shot. The owner-chefs Nancy and David Chen offer a huge menu of fresh and delicious dishes to choose from. The fish with deep fried ginger and the dasheen and pork are highly recommended. They also have an excellent sushi menu. It’s not cheap but well worth every cent. This is a place to go for a memorable meal.
4 Cork Street, Roseau. Tel: (767) 448-6628
Papillote Rainforest Restaurant
Papillotte Wilderness is a great lunchtime spot. With its hot thermal pools, spectacular gardens and view across the Roseau Valley, this is so much more than just a place to eat. The lunchtime menu is simple: sandwiches and interesting salads (such as green papaya and chicken). They also serve a flying fish platter and steamed fish in a banana leaf. The desserts are good too: Key lime pie, chocolate brownie and fresh fruits. But the highlight for many are the appetisers: the dasheen and breadfruit puffs, and titiwi accras. If you are not a resident then you have to pay to use the hot thermal pools, and if you book in advance you can arrange a relaxing massage on a Tuesday or Friday. Papillote Wilderness Retreat, Trafalgar. Tel: (767) 448 2287
Sutton Place Hotel
Sutton Place is a traditional hotel in the centre of Roseau that used to be a family house. Each Wednesday and Saturday they have a Roti Buffet from 11.30am until 2pm. It’s immensely popular with the local clientele, so you need to get there early, as the food disappears very quickly. They serve a range of curries buffet-style to put in your dahl puri roti skin: chicken, fish, beef, goat and mixed vegetables. It’s a good venue for an informal business meeting due to its location, and the dining room is light and airy. 25 Old Street, PO Box 2333, Roseau. Tel: (767) 499 8700
River Rush Retreat
River Rush is a great place to go for a relaxing Sunday brunch. The menu is quite limited: quiche, eggs Benedict and other egg and vegetable dishes, but alongside the food they serve an exquisite feast of Jazz from 10am-2pm. It is owned and run by Mo, who also happens to be an amazing saxophonist (her stage name is One White Chick). It’s right in the middle of a river so you can always cool off with a quick swim. They also serve some seriously good cocktails – nothing beats a Bloody Mary on a Sunday.... well maybe a rum or two! Stonefield, located between Concord and the Deux Branche Bridge, 15 minutes from Melville Hall Airport and Pond Casse. Tel: (767) 295 7266
Pagua Bay Bar
Pagua Bay Bar’s cutting edge design wouldn’t look out of place in New York or London, but somehow it works in the Caribbean too, and the food is great. Owned and run by Americans Rick and Alicia Davison, it boasts two flat screen TV’s and polished concrete tables and chairs, and there’s a chilling out area at the back with a great view of the Atlantic Ocean. The food is a mixture of American favourites – tacos, pizza, salads and some great steaks – but they also feature local dishes, such as coconut shrimp, with more being added all the time. It’s a great place for a get together with pals, and kids will love the menu, or if you are catching a flight, pop in on the way to the airport which is very close by. Marigot, Tel: (767) 445-8888
Randy’s
Randy’s is right off the beaten track, and quite difficult to find, but the perfect place for a long, leisurely lunch as Randy Prosper is not only a great cook but also delightful company. The poached crayfish are cooked to perfection and the rice is aromatic and tasty. He also rustles up a mean chicken salad which looks as good as it tastes! His menu is limited but it is real home cooked, fresh, local food with a kick. If you’re lucky he might even tell you what he did before opening his restaurant! Wesley, Tel: (767) 315 7474
Cornerhouse Cafe
Part cafe, part library and internet hub, this is a great brunch spot serving a varied breakfast menu: salt fish, ground provisions and eggs, any style omelettes or eggs, toast or pancakes, not forgetting bagels almost too big to get in your mouth! They also serve a varied lunch menu which includes salads, daily specials, vegetarian dishes, burgers, fajitas and wraps. It changes all the time. They serve Dominican coffee, teas and also have a full bar available. 1,5 King George V Street, Roseau. Tel: (767) 449 9000.
Experience Dominican food... come to Creole Day!
Creole Day is celebrated on the last Friday in the month of October and is a very special part of Dominica’s independence celebrations. During this time the radio stations broadcast their programmes and news in the kweyol language and many Dominicans wear national costume. For visiting food lovers there is the opportunity to taste a variety of traditional Dominican dishes such as braff or kou boyon (clear fish stew with green bananas) chatu water (stewed octopus), kwibish (crayfish) ‘fashine ‘– soused cow’s skin and titiwi accras (made from a mixture of day old river fish and crustaceans),
as well as lots of different sweets such as fwaises tarts and coconut cakes.
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