| Eating out in the British Virgin Islands |
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Zing 8 (July 2010) An insider’s guide to seven of the best restaurants to be found in the British Virgin Islands. Words: Carol Bareuther As in many Caribbean places, the cuisine of the British Virgin Islands is certainly eclectic. Thanks to its fairly large ex-pat community you’ll find British fare like fish and chips and roasts with Yorkshire pudding, as well as fine dining restaurants featuring French and Italian cuisine. Local favourites are a rich mix of African, East Indian, Chinese influences, and include bullfoot soup, saltfish and dumplings, callaloo, fish and fungi and roti. Venues are as varied as the cuisine. There’s everything from beach bars and hole-in-the-wall cafes, to dress-up waterfront restaurants. Pusser’s Road Town Pub Don’t come here when there’s a cruise ship in port because you’ll be hard pressed to find a seat at lunchtime. But do come at other times for two reasons: 1. A Painkiller (a frosty blend of fruit punch and rum topped with nutmeg that comes in its own take-home Pusser’s Navy mug), and 2. A fix of fabulous fish and chips. There’s also jerk pork and chicken, big beefy burgers, baby back ribs, spicy chicken wings and coconut shrimp on the menu. The decor is decidedly nautical: life buoys, multi-coloured burgees, and maritime art and antiques, as well as a view of the bustling boat traffic in Road Town harbour. Relax in the rocking chairs on the front porch after a meal. Lunch and dinner daily. Road Town, Tortola. Tel: (284) 494-3897 C&F Bar & Restaurant Tucked into the back streets of Road Town, in a fan-cooled dining room decorated with all sorts of interesting trinkets dangling from the ceiling, chef/owner Clarence Emmanuel makes a conch in butter sauce that’s not to be missed. Clarence is also a barbecue master and his generous portions of BBQ chicken and baby back ribs come with sides like potato salad and coleslaw. Other favourites include scallops in a lime-butter sauce, curried conch, and coconut curried mutton. Lunch and dinner daily. Port Purcell, Road Town, Tortola. Reservations requested. Tel: (284) 494-4941. Quito’s Gazebo It’s the combination of food and music, not to mention the awesome seaside location, that makes this beach bar and restaurant a real go-to place. Reggae singer and owner Quito Rhymer,plays with his band, The Edge, on Tuesday and Thursday nights, and performs solo on Friday and Saturday nights. Burgers, roti and salads, like marinated conch in curried mayonnaise, are favourites at lunch. Dinnertime is when fresh seafood stars on the menu. The signature Gazebo seafood combo features the fresh catch of the day. If you’re just into the food, one of the best bargains on the island is Quito’s BBQ on Wednesdays, served from 3.30pm to 5pm. Enjoy barbecued ribs, chicken roti, johnnycakes and more for only $15 per person. Lunch and dinner Tues-Sun. Cane Garden Bay, Tortola. Reservations requested for dinner. Tel: (284) 495-4837. Nature’s Way Vegetarians flock to this quick-serve natural foods deli for the daily changing menu which may include pumpkin soup, lentil patties, veggie pizza rolls and plantain lasagna. Fresh fruit smoothies are a great refresher even if you’re not hungry enough for a full meal. The atmosphere is friendly, food tasty and prices affordable. Eat in or take out. If you take out, there are several shaded benches in the area. Breakfast and lunch Sun-Fri. Mill Mall, Road Town, Tortola. Tel: (284) 494-6393. Brandywine Bay Come here when you want to splurge and dine like royalty. Britain’s Princess Anne paid a visit in 2005 and succumbed to the temptation of chef/owner, Davide Pugliese’s signature roast duck with mango chutney. Maybe because of its Royal connection this is one dish he keeps on an otherwise ever-changing menu that pays homage to whatever has just been caught, picked or flown in. Other selections might include Thai Pumpkin & Coconut Milk Soup for starters, entrees such as wahoo steamed in a banana leaf, crusted apple pork medallions, and homemade tiramisu for dessert. Candlelight, fresh flowers, colourful African-style tablecloths and an incredible view of the Sir Francis Drake Channel make for a romantic night out. Dinner Mon-Sat. Brandywine Bay, Tortola. Reservations required. Tel: (284) 495-2301. Big Bamboo You’ll feel as though you’re at the end of the world here. And, you’ll be right. There’s nothing but water from this casual beachfront restaurant across to Africa. The beauty of this open-air, green-painted restaurant set with picnic tables, family photos and a map of the island on one wall, is that you can place your order, go for a swim or walk on the beach, and then wander back later when your food is ready. Entrees include stewed conch, shrimp, crab cakes, baby back ribs and barbecued chicken, all served with potatoes, peas and rice, vegetables and a drink. Lunch and dinner daily. Loblolly Bay, Anegada. Reservations suggested. Tel: (284) 499-1680 Harris Place Tucked along the western shore of Little Harbour, a world away from the hubbub in the main anchorage of Great Harbour, Cynthia Harris – who is as famous for her friendliness as she is for her food – has built a family restaurant with a long list of customers. There’s nothing fancy here: picnic tables sit open-air under an easy-to-recognise red roof. The big draw is the all-you-can-eat buffets for $30 per person. Mondays its lobster, Thursday is fresh seafood, Saturday is barbecued pork, ribs and chicken, all with delicious sides including peas and rice, potato salad, coleslaw and homemade key lime or pineapple pie for dessert. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Little Harbour, Jost Van Dyke. Reservations suggested for dinner. Tel: (284) 495-9295. 5 foods you must try • Anegada Lobster Caught on Horseshoe Reef in Anegada, these clawless lobsters are typically grilled and served with melted butter, garlic and fresh lime. • Red Pea Soup Made thick with red kidney beans, smoked pig tail, cornmeal dumplings and seasonings such as onion, celery and garlic. Be aware that British Virgin Islanders like their broth syrupy-sweet. • Guava Berry Tart Little red guava berries are scarcer today than in years gone by, but they do grow on Tortola’s Sage Mountain. A tart made with these sweet berries is a rare treat at Christmas. • Whelks and rice The whelk, considered a real delicacy, is a large marine snail. Local cooks pressure cook it until soft, sizzle it in garlic butter and stir these savoury morsels into seasoned white rice. Whelk season is from 1 October to 30 March. • Roti Roti is bread made out of pureed split peas, however most people think of roti as both bread and filling – usually a curried mix of meat, poultry, seafood or vegetables. Fish roti, wahoo roti for example, is especially popular. |
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